Nose: Thick, crumbly oatcakes with a bit of brie. Ice cream and jelly. Pencils. Big notes of earth, with medicinal notes coming through after a minute or two. Ham – plenty of ham.

Palate: Bonfire embers, light struck matches and sea breeze. The oatcakes are back, but this time they’ve been loaded up with fruit chutney and served alongside some blackberries. A drop of water opens up salty notes.

Finish: It just goes and goes, this one. Smoke and earth all the way to the end.

Overall: Wouldn’t mind finding this one wrapped up under the Christmas tree, that’s for sure.